B.SUVD: HUN DEEL IS ACTUALLY DESIGN OF 13th CENTURY.

It is much appreciated that Mongolians started to prefer to wear national costumes than casual clothes. However, do we know about our national costumes well?

Thus, we are delivering the interview with B.Suvd, director of “Mongol Costumes” center.

I WAS EDUCATED BY STATE POLICY TO WORK FOR STATE COMMITTEE OF PRICE AND STANDARD.

I heard that you were working at Art and Aesthetic Committee of State Committee Of Price And Standard. What were your main duties there?

Personnel had been prepared by ruling party policy during the socialist times. One of them is I and I had graduated in Russia in 1980.  We had no right to choose our profession. They told me: “You will study as designer in light industry in Kiev city, Russia and you will be working for State Committee Of Price And Standard after graduation.” Mongolians were producing shoes, clothes and many more things in 1980, which was golden age of production. 

Community of garment factory owned three or four factories while community of leather and wool factory owned dozens of factories.

State Committee Of Price And Standard was the only inspecting organization to ensure good quality and high standard of the goods that were produced during that time. I was the trained staff for that organization.

Former PM, D.Byambasuren was head of State Committee Of Price And Standard. During that period, many young professionals graduated abroad by public policy and former PM, D.Byambasuren had really close connection with them.  He used to say “Ariunaa, I`ll meet you. We have only 15 minutes to talk” and he puts the time and asks lots of questions and provides guidance and meets with everyone. Moerover, he used to say: “You need to do more. What books are you reading according to this situation? What are you thinking about that? And so on. 

My first job was secretary of Art and Aesthetics Commission. Every product designed had to pass the aesthetics committee. Committee members included Artist Ts.Dorjpalam, anthropologist Kh.Nyambuu and prominent researcher S.Luvsanvandan.

What is aesthetics?

Aesthetic is concept of beauty. Beauty gives motivation, joy and meaning of life to people. Knowledge of aesthetics provides people to accept what is good, how to love others, how to be confident in future and hands the key of happiness. People who can feel the beauty are able to live apart from hate, curse and blasphemy. People always feel positive from everything and they will be able to get the energy of life. Great S.Luvsanvandan wrote the first textbook in Mongolia about Aesthetic Perception. I was very lucky to read and ask what I did not understand from him and I was listening to every word of him.

THE FIRST “GOYOL” FASHION WEEK, ACADEMY OF NATIONAL COSTUME RESEARCH

You are the founder of “Goyol” Fashion Week?

In 1988, “Goyol” Fashion Week was held for the first time to introduce fashion to youth, identify fashion of next year, to promote designers and their products to the public. Thus, “Goyol” Fashion Week was organized under Art and Aesthetic Commission. As dedicated to youth, we cooperated on organization with Mongolian Youth Association and Chamber of Commerce and Industry. I have been organizing “Goyol” Fashion Week until 1992. Lately, I’ve heard many unpleasant things about this festival. Like any other thing Goyol festival needs to improve and develop as time goes by. I am no longer part of it and we do not participate in the festival.

You have established Academy of National Costume Studies. More about the academy?

I had worked and lived abroad from 1992 to 2003. During that time, I was interested in further improvement and studies in profession and I did my PhD degree and did my thesis on Improvement of the modern garment design with reflection of Mongolian national costume elements at Kiev Technology and Design University.

Human being tends to overlook the heritage we already have and therefore one comes to realization only at some point when one is away from home. It happened to me as well. While my stay abroad I have realized what I can do with skills I have and with my rich cultural background. Moreover, my experience working with prominent anthropologists and ethnographers at the Arts and Aesthetics Committee has given me confidence to grab this theme and work on it.

I wanted to find ways to preserve the national costume and culture in this age of globalization and with this vision I have established the Academy of Naitonal Costume Studies NGO and Mongol Costumes LLC. The NGO is oriented to support the research on national costumes and development of research in this field for students and designers. We have organized many research conferences and published number of research works. But this field is enormous and we have a lot of space to improve and research.

I guess it is broad field with not only Mongolian national costumes, but also it should cover the national costumes of Mongolian ethnic groups as well?

In 2005 we established the World Mongolian Garment Union to research on Mongolian heritage of the world Mongolians costumes. This union unites researchers from Buriat, Tuva, Khalimag, Yakut and Inner Mongolia. Our first event organized was the Silk Road festival in Buriat. Then in Ulaanbaatar we organized Mongol Garment in 2005, White flag in Inner Mongolia in 2006, Tagna Uraankhai in Tuva in 2010, Fashion show in Yakut in 2012 and Amazing Mongol Garments fashion show in Ulaanbaatar in 2006, 2008, 2009 and in Khalimag in 2007.

This year is the 10^th anniversary of our union and we are planning to organize massive fashion festival in September.

UNFORTUNATELY, MONGOLIAN NATIONAL COSTUME IS NOT FEATURED IN WORLD DESIGN HISTORY

You initiated Deeltei Mongol /Mongol in Deel/ festival. Was this related to your profession or your own character?

From the very first day of my work at the Arts and Aesthetics I was sent to study Mongolian body type and come up with garment standards in Dundgobi aimag. I worked for 6 months there and became very interested in studies of Mongolian national costumes. Since that time my life has been connected with it.

It sounds interesting when you say that standards should be set for Mongolian national clothing?

In clothing industry it is important to set the standards for the mass production. Although I have been studying it for so many years there are lots of things I still do not understand. Deel has been with us for many centuries and have come to its perfection. It is pity that there is no word about Mongolian national clothing in the world history of garments.

Is there a log about Chinese national clothing?

There is log on Chinese garments. We do not even know if our history is being hidden away. On the other hand, there are many archaeological findings proving the existence of such rich cultural heritage we had. We have to work now to let the world know our culture.

HUN DEEL IS OURS AND STAND UP COLLAR DEEL IS CHINESE…

Mongolian national deel is very controversial. Many argue that Hun deel is ours and deel with stand up collar is Chinese. How should we differenciate?

There were times when Mongols were strong and ruled the world. It is inevitable that stronger nations leave their traces of culture and heritage. There are many historical traces in Chinese history that Chinese were studying Mongolian clothing as a part of the counter attack plan. Through those studies Chinese have adopted several elements of Mongolian national clothing into theirs. Many researchers have proved this. Russian, Japanese and Korean researchers have concluded that even the settled cultures have adopted elements of Mongolian costumes into their own garments.

In 2010 during the conference we had a guest speaker from China Dr Bao Min Shin, famous garment researcher. At that time he told us that he envies that Mongolia has rich cultural heritage in clothing and admitted that Chinese had adopted many elements from Mongolian garments.

Also Russian researcher L.L.Victorova in her works has clearly stated that standup collar and square front are Mongolian and not adopted from Manchu domination, as those elements have been utilized in traditional garments long before Manchus during Khitan era.

Could you please explain more about Hun deel?

Hun deel that has wide spread recently is not actually a Hun era deel. In 1924 two archaeological findings were found at Noyon Uul in Batsumber sum of Tuv aimag. One of those had open front for herders and one with sidelong front, which is stored at Hermitage in Russia. These are definitely from the 13th century. In 13th century Mongolian national deel has reached its highs and during Yuan dynasty Mongolian deel has been the most luxurious. So there is misunderstanding that 13th century deel is now being called Hun deel. 

How many documented proofs are there that Mongolians have influenced the clothing style of the neighboring Asian countries?

Researchers of China, Korea and Japan constantly come up with new findings how Mongol Empire influenced lifestyle of the nations it has dominated over. And many historical documents clearly depict how Chinese, Korean and some parts of Middle Eastern nations have adopted Mongolian garment elements widely.

Did people use to wear white clothes during Tsagaan Sar?

We have been celebrating Tsagaan Sar since Chingis Khan empire. There were many historical records written. “At the first day of Tsagaan Sar, king endowed public with custom to wear white clothes. White clothing was considered as symbol of purity, while it praised the king to be wealthy, healthy and happy.” wrote Marco Polo. Mongolians had never worn black deel during Tsagaan Sar. Recently, it is worn for the sake of being stylish. The color of deel has its own symbol.

What kind of silk is suitable for deel? What kind of silk is better to choose for ordinary people?

Tailor will choose easy material to work with. However, Mongolian tailors won’t have that attitude ever. They will sew with what customer brings. Tailor has to sew even if customer brings light Indian sari or Vietnamese silk. Tailor’s skill is important at those times. 

Comparing to past, people have clear understanding of the deel. Five or ten years ago, our political elites were wearing colorful and weird deel. However, I did not mean to criticize them because it is not their fault. We all had little knowledge of deel.

Earlier when we were creating deel with Tibetan golden thread silk, customer might say: " Do nor spoil it. That's very expensive silk." and one of the tailors sewing was in fear. Compared to that period, people became modest. Even, Department of State Ceremonies discuss on what to wear with us.  Suddenly, people were wearing deel with Hunnu collar. When people recognized the tradition and symbol, they could choose what to wear.  I recommend simple Mongolian deel to people who wear deel for the first time.

Youth tends to wear deel. What deel is appropriate for youth?

Simple and modest deel is appropriate for youth. If you research on history of deel, you will recognize the color and design of the deel. Youth does not need to imitate others.

Are customers of “Mongol Costumes” increasing year by year?

We already have our own customers. People come to us and say: “Your stitches are really good and different.” Customers are changing and renewing.  

We prefer to operate in social-oriented approach rather than promoting our salon. For instance, we published calendar that shows historical development of deel last year also we published calendar that shows historical development of children deel. Mongolians do not often purchase expensive clothes for their children because it is believed that number of clothes will be finished. In other words, having number in clothes symbolizes the longer life. Thus, it is believed that making deel for children by old clothes is harmful. Recently, heavy clothes likely to wear by children. In Mongolian Costume tradition, old man and children have one button at the top while youths have three buttons. Because three buttons feel uncomfortable for children and one button is easy for old man. 

Do you wear deel during Tsagaan Sar?

Indeed. Comparing to people who wear deel perfectly, I am not really good. Sometimes, I have no time to make deel for myself. I spend Tsagaan Sar as others, changing my old deel with new one.

What is the symbol of giving silk for deel to elders?

There is symbol of color of the deel. For elders silk should be not too bright compared with young man. To meet the interest of the person, it should be asked on silk and fabric. Every person has own view. You have to ask the color because person knows what color matches them.

What is your and “Mongol Costumes” plan for 2015?

Day after Tsagaan Sar, we will visit Indonesia with 26 members to participate in “Mongolian Cultural Days” with theatrical show titled “Secret History of Mongolian National Costume”, which shows the development of Mongolian national costumes. We plan our work based on the historical events of that year. In 2015, the 800th anniversary of the Khubilai Khan is to be held. This year, we plan to publish three-volume book of the Secret of the Mongolian National Costumes. The content of the book has already stood out. Moreover, the 10^th anniversary of the “World Mongolian Association of Costumes” will be celebrated. We plan to attend in Research Conference dedicated to 800th anniversary of the Khubilai Khan with World Mongolians. It was found that during the Yuan Dynasty of Khubilai Khan, deel (Mongolian national costume) were the most beautiful and the most perfect shape. Therefore, we will release new collection for our research.

Thank you for the interview. Wish you success to your work.